Is Bad Taste 2016's Good Taste?
So I'm just going to put it out there and call 2016 the year of Bad Taste. But in a good way, obviously. Have you noticed the resurgence of what was once considered ugly? Thrift shop like looks that ditch makeup, embrace 80's perms and loan inspiration from chavs is seemingly where it's at this season. Why though? Because the world has never been smaller and fashion has never been more accessible to the masses, so where luxury brands have kicked back and played it safe in the past, they are now forced to work harder to retain their directional status. Because if they don't, there's plenty of young up & comers ready to take their spot. And how do you stay ahead of the pack? Innovation & conviction with an I-don't-give-a-fuck-what-you-think attitude.
Take the unashamed arrogance of Vetements for example - $370 for a DHL tee shirt (I'm sure actual DHL employees are making a tidy profit by selling their uniforms on ebay - I would too) is just the start of their anti-fashion mission. Looking to the streets and to those real people traditionally never engaged by the high fashion world has allowed the Vetements collective to flip fashion on it's head by challenging the meaning of high end. I mean when was the last time a death metal sweater was seen on a couture runway? When were punks last celebrated by someone other than Vivienne Westwood?
Gucci's Allessandro Michele is redefining cool by bringing forth geek chic and eccentric pieces that would be far more at home in your grandmothers wardrobe - think knitted berets with veiling and oversized 70's frames (you know the ones, usually associated with paedophiles). Only just this week did he present his British inspired cruise collection at Westminster Abbey which featured union jack knits, sports socks with frills and a wad of thick rimmed glasses.
Then there's the logo phenomenon, one that regularly moves in and out of favour every few seasons. Vetements track pants and tops with the repurposed the Champion logo go for $720 per piece and are consistently sold out. The brands key designer Demna Gvasalia has also taken his logo love to new second home at Balenciaga, where he has plastered the French logo on the collar of fur lined jackets and oversized scarves. Subtly is no more according to Gvasalia who's all about the things your mum might call uncouth. Nicolas Ghesquière is also partially responsible for the current relevance of logo prints, having used the famous LV monogram print in pretty much all of his collections for the house since his arrival in 2013. And just this week we saw the return of the Gucci logo tee which is really no surprise given the outrageous popularity the brand is currently having.
Designer thrift shop styling has never looked so good and it seems like it's time to finally break the rules. Embrace the tacky, try the garish, have a laugh and remember, it's just fashion...
Gucci Resort 2017
Balenciaga Pre-fall 2016
SHOP BAD TASTE
All images via vogue.com